Welcome to what I hope will be the ultimate guide to working with any type of two-part epoxy putty or resin. I started this guide with my own contributions and experiences but I will be the first to admit that when it comes to making wide body kits and shaping the hardened putty to perfection there are many out there better than me. So I sought them out…

The resulting guide is one that shows you not just how to work with 2 part epoxy putty as promised but also how to work with resin, another type of modelling compound that as you will soon see, works really well and turns out looking delicious* (*do not eat the resin)
I’ll introduce these 2 cool cats shortly but let me begin with the basics of working with epoxy putty along with answers to some common questions and then I’ll hand the reigns over to the professionals so they can show you how to really shape and work with the putty. If you’re already comfortable working with putty then feel free to skip straight to the good stuff below 🙂

Working with Epoxy Putty – The Basics

  • Start by mixing the 2-part putty together (about a 50/50 ratio) until you are happy with consistency and then shove a huge lump over the area you want the join to be.
    The best advice I can give here is to use too much! You can always sand back a lump but you can never add more to a hollow or indent in your join.
  • I use a combination of 200 – 1200 grit sandpaper. I start with the 200 (very coarse) and work my way down to the 1200 wet&dry sandpaper for that smooth finish.
  • When using the putty to join two castings or smooth over a crack then you only need sandpaper but if you were making a widebody kit then you would also use a hobby/exacto knife and a few different shaped files to help cut, chisel and ‘finesse’ your fender flares into shape.
  • Once you are happy with the join it’s time to prime it. This is also a great step in making sure your join is perfect because while it might look great in the initial join, once the colour is consistent over the whole thing you notice all the tiny pock marks and imperfections where the join is. You can then sand back the imperfections (and primer) and either add more epoxy putty or sand back the join – whatever is required. which leads me to some common questions and helpful tips:
  • Use a small dab of water on the end of your finger to help soften and smooth the surface of the modelling putty. You’ll be amazed how smooth it will turn an otherwise lumpy surface!
  • I use Milliput brand of putty (comes in white and yellow-grey versions – both are great) and I have also worked with (and recommend) Tamiya brand and Alteco EpoPutty (Malaysian brand I think)
  • Yes you can paint over putty. With any type of paint.
  • Yes epoxy putty is waterproof once dried.
  • Epoxy Putty dries properly in about 24 hours but is hard to the touch after an hour or two (depending on room humidity and temperature).
  • Yes the putty will stick firmly to the casting – metal or plastic. *If it doesn’t then you’re using a crap epoxy putty or it’s old and ‘gone sour’ (they do that)
  • Yes you can apply paint stripper to the hardened putty without issue but I would strongly recommend stripping the casting of paint BEFORE you start applying any sort of putty to the surface.
  • Yes you can easily carve into the putty once it has hardened. Assuming you did a great job of mixing the two parts, the putty will allow you to carve it much like a sculptor would.

I cover all of that in the following video as well, and again if you’re already a seasoned modelling putty veteran then just keep swimming… 😀

Get your epoxy putty sWAG-ON with Farhan Hirzan

It gives me great pleasure to introduce Farhan Hirzan – a bloke I’ve been following (you should too –> @_FarhanHirzan_  ) for a while but who really grabbed my attention with his custom made Evo IX Wagon (CT9W) – a car that cannot be imported or registered in Australia and is without doubt my holy grail. Yep, I would totally choose that over an AMG E63 Wagon or an Audi RS6 Avant – both of which have more carrying capacity and are easily twice as fast. (Ok maybe I’d take the Audi LOL). Just so we’re on the same page – and to keep you interested, he basically turned this into that:

Best Custom Creations from MCH Facebook Group - May 2019

Farhan is able to get straight to the point when he shares his tips – a gift I clearly do not have, and as such it means the pictures do most of the talking. Luckily for us they speak loudly, clearly, and oh so harmoniously <3

xtra-seal epoxy puttyCustom Mitsubishi Lancer Evo 9 wagon (CT9W) Voltex by using tomica Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 7 GTA. 

  • Brand of Epoxy putty that i using is Xtraseal.
  • For sand paper i use 240c for rough work. Then, i use 500c sand paper for get more smooth surface at putty.
  • For diffuser, i use plastic blister hotwheel.
  • For carving work,i just using stationary knife.
  • Next detailing work i use artline CD Marker 0.4mm to get more thin for headlight drawing.

The following photos really showcase how much work was involved. From a how to perspective the only thing I can add here is to point out that it all comes down to time and patience. We have given you the tools required to get the job done – shaping it to perfection really does come down to practice, patience and more practice. So get practicing!

While this isn’t epoxy putty per se, it is a great little hack for those who can’t get their hands on styrene sheets! Hot Wheels Blisters! Who’da thunk it?

And then into the spray booth for a first coat of primer…

The following pics showcase the body work from all angles (and also reveal the fact that this is actually his second wagon creation!)


These two shots (above and below) really showcase how much work has gone into shaping that rear end

And a few more of the final product (the first one anyway)

Best Custom Creations from MCH Facebook Group - May 2019 Best Custom Creations from MCH Facebook Group - May 2019

Make sure you are following Farhan on Instagram @_FarhanHirzan_  – and while you’re at it give this talented fella @Agan.Roy a follow as well… (nice segue Alex!)

Making Wide Body-Kits Using Resin Liquid by Agan Roy

The following guide (in both video and written format) focuses on using modelling resin but the methods he uses and the tips he shares can (and should) be applied to your two part epoxy putty as well.

This is also the guide you want to be watching if you plan on making Pandem, Rocket Bunny, Liberty Walk or any wide body kits that would make Kim Kardashian’s bum look small.

And make sure you follow @Agan.Roy on Instagram and on Facebook for more amazing work and widebody inspiration. Why even as I check now he has just posted a deliciously sweet Pandem style widebodied gold Golf GTi.. <3 Ahem, anywho, let’s get straight into the guide and then follow it with a detailed video showing Agan making the fender flares from start to finish.

What you need

  1. Resin Liquid
  2. Cutter Blade
  3. Baby Powder
  4. Propan Car Refinish Spot Putty
  5. 400 and 1000 Grit Sandpaper
  6. Post It paper
  7. Pen
  8. 2 plastic cups or something like that to mix the resin

Custom Widebody Kit – Step 1:

  • Mix resin liquid with baby powder, and then mix it

  • Take a little mixed resin, and put it on another cups, and then put 1 drip of catalyst there, stir!


  • Once you have mixed your resin to the consistency required take your pen and your post it note and place them in position under the wheel arch

  • This is a great tip that you should use when making all your widebody kits, regardless of what modelling putty you are using. A pen of the right circumference and a piece of paper to stop the putty sticking to the pen is the perfect way to ensure the inside of your wheel arch has a perfect curve to it.
  • Wait between 45-60 minutes until the resin dry, and then take the paper & pen out, after it dry, you can start to craft it

NOTE : The more catalyst you put into the resin, the faster it will dry, but note that the faster it dries, the harder it is to work with

Custom Widebody Kit – Step 2:

  • On this step, you can carefully craft the resin, first step is make the basic shape of the bodykit using cutter blade

  • After that, you can sand the bodykit using 400 and 1000 grit of sandpaper

  • If you got some hole on the resin, no problem, you can put some resin on there, and re-shape the resin again or you can use Propan Car Refinish Spot Putty and then sand it using 1000 wet sandpaper (put the sandpaper on water first)

Continue the step from first until the bodykit finished, and always remember, Practice Make Perfect

Have Fun Good People, Thank You


Follow me on :

  • Instagram.com/agan.roy
  • Facebook.com/agan.roy
  • Twitter.com/UselessLazySlob
  • Youtube Channel Agan Roy

How to Make Wide Body With Resin Video

Full version (4:48) showing the very beginning of the process to the end (almost)

Shows him putting the finishing touches on the fender flare using the knife (running time 1:10)



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