Welcome to another Hot Wheels How To Guide, this time brought to you by the ever talented @Circuitr_hotwheels…but let’s just call him Blair because otherwise it’s just weird for everyone.
Blair was kind enough to share his tips on how to get a glass like finish on your custom diecast cars, and after seeing some of the wet-look finishes he is achieving on his customs I would advise you to sit up and take note.
Painting 101 – How to Achieve a Flawless Finish, Everytime!
Before I let Blair take the reigns I wanted to point out something that this guide also teaches us (without actually mentioning it at all! – Blair you Jedi master you) and that is the answer to the age old question of how to remove the orange peel effect that cripples many model makers and customisers. As a quick answer to the question of how to stop getting that ghastly orange peel/marbling effect on your new custom you need to ensure the temperature of the paint and the air itself is spot on AND that the pressure in the can is adequate (read: shake it like a Polaroid picture) but beyond that it is trial and error…AND taking heed of all the painting advise that Blair is about to dish out.
And of course it goes without saying that if you are not already following Blair on Instagram then you should sort that out quick smart. Here, I’ve even provided a linky poos for you to click on –> LINKY POO
Take it away brother…
How to Create a Glass Like Finish on Your Diecast Cars
– A Guide by @circuitr_hotwheels
I’ve used photos from separate builds but should make sense. – Blair
I strip my castings with paint stripper from the local hardware store. Please use gloves and safety glasses as this stuff burns!
Then the casting has its mold lines and other imperfections filed and any sinks or pits filled with Tamiya light curing putty. This stuff cures under a minute in natural lights or within 5 mins under fluorescent light.
Then the casting is sanded with 1000 grit wet and dry sandpaper.
Casting is then primed with an etch primer. I use Mr Hobby metal primer which is done with an airbrush.
Base coat is then applied then left for at least 2 days to fully cure. Otherwise this happens ?
Yep that’s the base coat gassing out under the clear, so either paint your coats within an hour or wait 2-3 days for the paint to fully cure.
So, after primer and base coat. The casting is wet sanded with 2000 grit paper.
For the Speedster I wanted racing stripes and circle so it was masked up for the black colour.
I use Tamiya vinyl fine line tape for the edge and Tamiya masking tape to cover. For the circle, I use this really cool compass to cut circles.
Then airbrushed on the black paint…
Right after the paint is applied, the masking comes off so it leaves clean lines. If no touch ups required, you can go straight into clear coat otherwise you will have to wait for the paint to cure.
For clear coat, I like to dust the model with a fine mist, leave for a minute. Then start laying the paint on heavier. this is the tricky part, too light and the paint will look bumpy, too thick and you will get runs. It’s something only practice can teach. Remember, nothing is a mistake when you have paint stripper ?
Yes, the racing stripe on the front is crooked. Good spotting ?
So that’s how I paint my models. It’s not the be all and end all, just the way I’ve tried and tested over the years.
Blair aka @circuitr_hotwheels